By Gabri Mtnez
I don´t remember if I was 10 or 11 when D. Andrés, my school biology teacher, that knew that I was a complete herpetology obsessed suggested me the Blume guide of Amphibians and Reptiles of Europe. Some weeks later my mother bought me the book in a shop in the Carrefour Shopping Center in Alcobendas (Madrid).
That book changed my life and opened my knowledge of European herps. I remember to stay hours and hours just seeing the photos of the weirdest animals of the book: Eryx jaculus, Platyceps najadum, Pseudopus apodus or Telescopus fallax. The idea of seeing these species in the wild, in Montenegro or Greece, then was just an impossible target for me, but in my kid dreams, I had encounters with them several times.
Finally in 2010 and 2011 I made trips to Israel and was lucky enough to see all these weird species (changing Platyceps collaris and Telescopus hoogstraali instead of P. najadum and T. fallax), so my plan to visit Greece was not so priority.
However with the pass of the years, I received many good references of Greece, specially of the Milos Island, the Peloponnese Peninsula and the almost Greek endemic Vipera graeca, the only European Vipera species I still missed. All that, together with the pressure of my Romanian friend Doru to visit Greece and the possibility to visit Greece with the Greek herpetology expert Elias Tzoras made that a Greek trip become in my Top 10 list places to visit in the world soon.
In autumn 2023 I bought my flights to the summer 2024 destination (secret). But at the middle of December when I returned home after working my wife had a surprise, she was pregnant again and the new creature would born in middle august. So I had to cancel my summer flights and the trip. My wife suggested me to make a trip before summer so I remembered when Elias told me to visit Greece in early June to Vipera graeca so we began to organize the trip.
I had just a week but I had two clear main priorities: the red phenotype of Vipera lebetinus and Vipera graeca, and it we have more time Zamenis situla and Malpolon insignitus.
Doru got a friend to drive from Bucarest to Athens and then make the trip in their car. Apparently that friend was supposed to be “just a driver”, but that guy, Sorin Tranca, result to be an artist, the “different color” in a herpetology trip. A guy that instead of not being an herper, he was happy to join us during our adventures, always with a smile.
From Malaga the best price to visit Athens was thorough Istanbul, so it was a really large trip. Saturday morning I was very early in the Athens airport until I met Cristian Torica. He is a Romanian herper with a wide experience in Central and South America herpetology. Finally Doru and Sorin appeared in the airport in the morning, we took a coffee and something for breakfast and drove to the first herping spot around the airport.
The landscape was yellow, exactly like in most parts of Spain in June. When the sun is heating everyday strongly and there were no rains recently. We flipped some trash and stones and the ground was extremely dry. We only found some Chalcides ocellatus in the first moments. I felt that sure we would not find cool stuff except in the high mountain when under a rock appeared an adult Vipera meridionalis, and at one meter distance a large Pseudopus apodus entered in a big bush. We continued searching around but only saw some Lacerta trilineata and Testudo marginata.
We would meet Elias Sunday at middle of the day so Doru proposed to visit a hill close to Athens in the meantime, with the idea of take photography of lizards.
We finally could find some Podarcis erhardii, Testudo sp. and Lacerta trilineata. For the dinner we visited a restaurant with a big TV to see the Champions League final. Very surprisingly, we saw a fresh dead on road Telescopus fallax in the evening with strong light and in a recently burned area.
After the dinner we searched for a sleeping place. The 4 of us slept in hammocks in front of a left building. 2 hours later a group of boys and girls were entering in the left house just for fun as a scary experience, and when we say hi in the middle of the night they were really scary. It was a funny night
Sunday morning we woke up and after a fast expedition we met with Elias Tzoras in Athens. Elias explained us that June in Athens is too hot so the best could be to go to the port and wait for our night ferry. So we reserved our energy to Milos and expended many hours in a restaurant close to the Port eating and talking about herpetology and life. Finally, we got the 4 hours ferry to Milos.
We arrived very late to Milos and just searched for a close place to sleep. It was crazy to find a rat crossing the road and 3 more DOR in few kms. We put the tent and found a Mediodactylus kotschyi around.
Monday we woke up very early, just sleeping few hours, with the idea of visiting the streams where usually people find Macrovipera specimens ambushing birds around the water points. Elias knew a good spot for reddish vipers but he didn´t find it in his 2 previous trips to Milos so I confirmed with Jonas Arvidsson that we would visit the correct spot.
After 20 minutes walking in the stream, I began to feel frustrated because there were no a single drop of water in the stream. The high temperatures and probably the goats provoked that the stream was completely dry. However, when we were close to return to the car, we heard a “snake sound” on a bush. It was a miracle because there was a red Macrovipera lebetinus. Absolutely incredible first snake of the island, my top 1 of Milos (and maybe the nicest European viper). After some photos we returned to the car, making photos in the way to some amazing Podarcis milensis.
The temperature increased a lot but Elias wanted to show us a good spot to Natrix natrix moreotica, picturata phenotype (favourite Elias snake after Zamenis longissimus). However, the temperate was really hot and we didn’t find any herp, even Pelophylax sp. My Moroccan instinct guided me to check some weird buildings around houses and found a Macrovipera lebetinus trapped in a water pit. We entered in the pit and took it out, and after some photos, we left it in a rocky wall.
With that temperature was stupid for herping so we directly go for taking the breakfast, and after that expended the whole day in the beach, resting thanks to the shadow of the beach trees.
When the temperature was lower, in the evening after a Gyros for dinner, we visited some left buildings surrounded by agriculture fields divided by rocky walls. According to Elias in early spring or autumn flipping is possible to find many snakes, but all was dry so we didn´t find any snake under rocks, just active a Telescopus fallax and a young Macrovipera lebetinus, and another viper puffing from inside a wall. The place had plenty of geckos (Mediodactylus kotschyi, Hemidactylus turcicus), rats and mice, so probably the density of snakes there is very high.
We left that place and returned to the stream of the red viper to try to find more vipers. However, we didn’t´find any snake in the stream at night. We only saw another Telescopus fallax close to the road, in a slope with many Hemidactylus turcicus.
We woke up on Tuesday, our second and last day in Milos, and tried to visit other streams northwest of the island. However, the trails are not always perfect and we decided to return to the asphalt, and then, with already high temperature return to the beach for resting the whole day. Sleeping, gyros, ice cream, bath, beer… and the day passed fast.
For the last evening in the Milos Island, we visited again the spot of Natrix natrix moreotica, picturata phenotype. The sun just disappeared and the temperature was much better, and in a fast expedition of 20 minutes we could see the 5th Macrovipera lebetinus and an amazing Natrix natrix moreotica, picturata phenotype. It´s really interesting to observe a dark phenotype of a snake species in a very sunny place as Milos, because usually dark phenotypes let the snakes get warmer easily so these phenotypes are more typical in high mountain ranges.
Finally, we returned to the port of Milos to wait for our ferry. When we entered in the ferry the people looks serious and well sited, but after some minutes everybody was sleeping everywhere. The good thing of getting a nocturnal ferry is that you can sleep and rest perfectly.
We reached the Athens Port the Wednesday very early and drove directly to my target 2 of the trip, Vipera graeca. In the middle of the way we stopped 3 times, for the breakfast, when a large Malpolon insignitus crossed the road and to take a shower in a local fountain, where we also could see many Podarcis muralis, an Algyroides nigropunctatus, a Testudo marginata, a Natrix natrix and many Rana graeca tadpoles and juveniles.
Doru only could see 1 Vipera graeca in his last visit after 2 failed trips before, so I was scary about finding it because the weather become more and more cloudy and cold. However, Elias looks extremely calm about that, and even before visiting the Vipera graeca we had time to eat a Gyros (well, some of us ate 2 Gyros to get extra energy for the mountain).
After eating we drove to the graeca habitat. When we were The temperature was lower and lower and when we reached the Elias spot, the temperature was over 20 degrees, windy, cloudy and even rainy!! Totally different to Athens or Milos. It was crazy because some seconds after parking the car we saw the first viper “basking”. It was a shedding specimen that probably needed to get warmer so it was out even with with rain or wind. Also some Podarcis muralis was active, two of them mating. And after few minutes we found a second specimen under a stone. With 2 specimens (in less than 10 minutes) Elias told us to please stop searching. It´s a protected species so he didn´t want that we continue flipping rocks and we perfectly understand it. We took some photos and left the place with a quick stop in a building for the water of the cattle, that had a Bombina variegata scabra and many newts (Ichthyosaura alpestris), many of them mating.
After these amazing moments we drove to Patras. There were no many kms but in a mountain road so we expended many hours. We made a small stop for souvenirs, and around the shop we found many Anguis graeca and a Natrix tessellata.
In Patras we would sleep in the Elias apartment, where the couple of Elias had prepared an amazing Pastitsio (“Greek lasagna”). I think I repeated 3 times, that was delicious. Also, Elias gave us a special Greek drink. A really amazing way to celebrate that we already saw the 2 main targets of the trip, the red viper and the Greek viper.
We woke up the Thursday and after a shower and the breakfast, we began to drive to the Peloponnese mountains at 11.00h. The first stop was in a stream with some ruins, where we could find Anguis graeca, Podarcis muralis, a Natrix natrix and an amazing Zamenis longissimus.
Second stop was not so good, and we only could see Rana graeca and a female Podarcis peloponnesiacus.
Finally we stopped for eating in the favorite spot for Elias. Before eating we flipped some rocks and found 5 Hierophis gemonensis, 2 Zamenis situla (sharing stone), 1 Vipera meridionalis and 1 female Malpolon insignitus. Apart of these active in habitat some Testudo and many amazing Podarcis peloponnesiacus. Although Elias was saying that June was late for that spot, with 9 snakes of 4 species that place was absolutely great for me. Very interesting to find these species together (in Iberia I am not sure that Hierophis and Malpolon can occur in same microhabitat together; and also Vipera is not usually with them).
After eating Elias wanted to go down to the mountain to another place close to some lagoons where we could find more species.
In the first stop we could find a cool dark bilineata Natrix natrix moreotica and 2 Xerotyphlops vermicularis. Elias and Doru looked a bit frustrated because all were drier that in spring and they expect to find more snakes.
Finally, the night began and Elias showed us to a good spot for Vipera meridionalis. The first snake was a juvenile Natrix natrix moreotica with bilineata pattern (“persa” phenotype). After that crazy day I would have been happy with 1 Vipera meridionalis in nocturnal activity, but finally we could find 5. Although the habitat was dry and the environment was not humid it was really amazing to find apart of many Mediodactylus kotschyi also many amphibians of different species around the Vipera forest: Bufotes sp., Hyla arborea or Pelophylax sp. moving around. And when we though it was time to sleep after the best herping day ever, Elias insisted to search for Pelobates balcanicus. After 10 minutes in his habitat with only few Hemidactylus turcicus around buildings when we were discussing that all was too dry for Pelobates, appeared an adult Pelobates balcanicus chloeae. Simply incredible… We then directly go to sleep, moving out a Natrix natrix moreotica of the road (alive snake 21 of the day after 3 other Natrix natrix, Zamenis longissimus, 6 Vipera meridionalis, 2 Zamenis situla, 5 Hierophis gemonensis, Malpolon insignitus and 2 Xerotyphlops v.).
We woke up the Friday and searched around the area. Even in the morning the temperature was very high, so we only saw some Testudo and 2 Malpolon insignitus that disappeared in the big bushes around the lake like rays. So finally, we decided to go to the beach to expend the day.
When the temperature was a big lower in the evening we moved to another spot. Flipping stones we could find sheds of Hierophis gemonensis and Malpolon insignitus, and in a trash place there was an adult Emys orbicularis, that probably didn´t know well where to go now with his habitat completely dry. Also we found several Mediodactylus kotschyi in the walls.
Finally, Elias kept us to his favorite flipping spot around the area. The place was a great are between agriculture fields with lot of “good” trash as tables, mattresses, logs… but we only found a Pseudopus apodus. When we were going to the car and flip a small piece of wood close to the car we found an amazing colored juvenile Platyceps najadum. A great find to finish the day.
Saturday morning Sorin left Elias at home whereas we tried to find reptiles in a new spot. The habitat looks great but the temperature was very high. We just saw some Pseudopus apodus and a young Hierophis gemonensis; so finally, we went to the beach to rest before I got my bus to Athens, and from Athens to the airport. The trip was over. In terms of species, the good spots of Elias and some luck moments made our trip extremely amazing, especially considering that more of 2/3 of the time we were sleeping or resting due to the extreme hot conditions. So finally it was like a real holiday trip but with incredible results. The organization of Elias with Doru was awesome, and it’s the second herp trip (after Arizona) that I returned home fattest than before the trip. Hope to find Elias and the Romanian guys in future adventures. The Greek trip will be in my memories forever
Ackowledgements: specially to Doru Painatescu, that organized all to make my Greece trip unforgettable, and to Elias Tzoras that was supposed to join us 2 or 3 days and finally he was almost the whole trip, keeping us to his best spots and making his best to make the trip great. To Cristian and Sorin to be so great during the trip. To Jonas Arvidsson to help me to confirm the red vipers spot. To Philippe Geniez for help to improve the trip report with his comments.