{"id":7740,"date":"2024-06-25T17:36:51","date_gmt":"2024-06-25T17:36:51","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.moroccoherps.com\/?page_id=7740"},"modified":"2024-07-06T12:12:46","modified_gmt":"2024-07-06T12:12:46","slug":"english-south-morocco-september-2023","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/www.moroccoherps.com\/en\/english-south-morocco-september-2023\/","title":{"rendered":"South Morocco September 2023"},"content":{"rendered":"

by Francisco Silva, Marco Caetano and Andr\u00e9 Oliveira<\/p>\n

Following up on our trip in 2022 and the will to return the year after, Marco and I went back to South Morocco on another herping trip. This time with our friend Andr\u00e9! We traveled to Morocco from the 8th until the 22nd of September 2023.<\/p>\n

This year we wanted to see more animals \u2013 especially snakes \u2013, and had particular focus on finding species we had missed the year before, such as Naja haje<\/em>, Echis leucogaster <\/em>and Telescopus tripolitanus<\/em>.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Day 1 \/ September 8th, 2023 – Lisbon – Agadir – Sidi Ifni<\/strong><\/p>\n

We started off with a very early morning flight (at 6:30 am!) from Lisbon to Agadir, having slept very little or nothing at all. Once we landed at Al Massira Airport, we picked up the car and headed south towards Sidi Ifni. On the way, we made a pit stop by the Massa River, where we saw many Pelophylax saharicus<\/em>, Mauremys leprosa<\/em>, Tarentola mauritanica<\/em> and an exciting skin shed of a very large Daboia mauritanica<\/em>.<\/p>\n

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Marco, Andr\u00e9 and Francisco about to board to Agadir<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n

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Sunrise from the plane<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Leaving Agadir towards Sidi Ifni<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Black Widow Spider – Latrodectus dahli<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Andr\u00e9 showing the skin shed of a large Moorish Viper – Daboia mauritanica<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

We went down our first water tank (hereafter aljibe<\/em>), where we rescued our first animal \u2013 a Saurodactylus brosseti \u2013<\/em>, and met a group of Spanish herpers who were ending their trip on the way back to Agadir.<\/p>\n

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Northern Wheatear – Oenanthe oenanthe<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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First rescue of the trip: South Morocco Lizard-fingered Gecko – Saurodactylus brosseti<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Massive aljibe from which we rescued the South Morocco Lizard-fingered Gecko – Saurodactylus brosseti<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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One of the many aljibes we checked for animals in<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After a nap break in the afternoon, we went for a short road cruise around Sidi Ifni, but were surprised with the apparent low activity. Still, we got to see our first Tarentola chazaliae <\/em>and Bufotes boulengeri <\/em>of the season.<\/p>\n

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View from our room in Sidi Ifni<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Helmethead Gecko – Tarentola chazaliae<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Helmethead Gecko – Tarentola chazaliae – eye close-up<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Helmethead Gecko – Tarentola chazaliae – head detail<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Due to the lack of sleep the night before, we were at the hotel by 11 pm. As we were getting ready for bed, we started feeling the floor and the walls shaking, as a magnitude 6.9 earthquake shook the region. We were one floor above the ground, and so the building shook considerably! Luckily, there was no damage in Sidi Ifni. Nonetheless, the whole town came outside for a while, and everyone wondered where the epicenter had been. Sadly, the next few days we got to know the real magnitude of the earthquake, and the lives it had claimed.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Day 2 \/ September 9th, 2023 – Sidi Ifni<\/strong><\/p>\n

On our second day, we checked aljibes, habitat, and did some road cruising in the evening. We saw Bufotes boulengeri<\/em>, Stenodactylus mauritanicus<\/em>, Saurodactylus harrisii<\/em>, Tarentola mauritanica<\/em>, Tarentola chazaliae<\/em>, Agama bibronii<\/em>, and the first snakes of the trip: two Psammophis schokari<\/em>, three Hemorrhois hippocrepis<\/em> and one Macroprotodon brevis<\/em>. All these snakes were trapped in aljibes<\/em>.<\/p>\n

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African Green Toad – Bufotes boulengeri<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Forsk\u00e5l\u2019s Sand-snake – Psammophis schokari<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Forsk\u00e5l\u2019s Sand-snake – Psammophis schokari<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Forsk\u00e5l\u2019s Sand-snake – Psammophis schokari – eye detail<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Small village close to Sidi Ifni<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Many-scaled Skink – Chalcides polylepis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Aljibe from which three Horseshoe Whip Snakes – Hemorrhois hippocrepis – were rescued<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Marco with three Horseshoe Whip Snakes – Hemorrhois hippocrepis – and one Iberian False Smooth Snake – Macroprotodon brevis – rescued from two aljibes<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Horseshoe Whip Snake – Hemorrhois hippocrepis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Horseshoe Whip Snake – Hemorrhois hippocrepis – eye detail<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Just before sunset, we came across these three Moroccan men who invited us to their home, offering tea and dinner. We had to decline the latter, since we had herping duty to do after sunset!<\/p>\n

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Our hosts for the sunset tea- great Moroccan hospitality!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Tea with a nice view<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Going through Moroccan herps with our knowledgeable hosts<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In the evening we saw Bufotes boulengeri <\/em>and a Stenodactylus mauritanicus <\/em>near Plage Blanche. On the drive back to the hotel, we found a Bitis arietans<\/em> dying that had just been run over by a car.<\/p>\n

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Puff Adder – Bitis arietans DOR<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Day 3 \/ September 10th, 2023 – Sidi Ifni – Guelmim<\/strong><\/p>\n

Our day could not have started better: on the first aljibe<\/em> we checked \u2013 just outside of Sidi Ifni \u2013, we found a beautiful young Naja haje<\/em>. It was the first time for all of us to ever see this species.<\/p>\n

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Egyptian Cobra – Naja haje – juvenile rescued from an aljbe<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Egyptian Cobra – Naja haje – detail of a juvenile rescued from an aljibe<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Egyptian Cobra – Naja haje – and habitat<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Habitat of Egyptian Cobra – Naja haje<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We did not see many specimen on this day, but we did see our first Uromastyx nigriventris<\/em> of the trip, and ended the day with yet another new species for all of us – the beautiful Oudri\u2019s Fan-footed Gecko (Ptyodactylus oudrii<\/em>)!<\/p>\n

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Landscape near Guelmim<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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White-crowned Wheatear – Oenanthe leucopyga<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Oudri\u2019s Fan-footed Gecko – Ptyodactylus oudrii – eye detail<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Oudri\u2019s Fan-footed Gecko – Ptyodactylus oudrii – finger detail<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Oudri\u2019s Fan-footed Gecko – Ptyodactylus oudrii<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Oudri\u2019s Fan-footed Gecko – Ptyodactylus oudrii<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Oudri\u2019s Fan-footed Gecko – Ptyodactylus oudrii<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Oudri\u2019s Fan-footed Gecko – Ptyodactylus oudrii<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Oudri\u2019s Fan-footed Gecko – Ptyodactylus oudrii<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Day 4 \/ September 11th, 2023 – Guelmim – Assa<\/strong><\/p>\n

We had camped near Guelmim, and started the day looking for Cerastes cerastes <\/em>tracks next to the place where we had set camp. We were not so lucky, and so decided to look for C. cerastes <\/em>near Fask, in an area where we had seen African Wolf (Canis lupaster<\/em>) the previous year. Indeed, we found C. cerastes <\/em>tracks, but no live specimen. Yet, we saw three Acanthodactylus boskianus <\/em>that were just starting to come out.<\/p>\n

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Campsite for the night near Guelmim<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Habitat at the campsite near Guelmim<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Habitat at the campsite near Guelmim<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Mammal tracks on sand near Guelmim<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Horned Viper – Cerastes cerastes – tracks on sand near Guelmim<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Desert Viper – Cerastes cerastes – and African Wolf – Canis lupaster – habitat near Guelmim<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Bosc\u2019s Fringe-toed Lizard – Acanthodactylus boskianus<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We spent the rest of the day around Assa checking aljibes<\/em> and habitat, where we found Mesalina guttulata<\/em>, Uromastyx nigriventris <\/em>(both dead and alive), one Trapelus boehmei<\/em> DOR, Tropiocolotes algeriensis<\/em>, Stenodactylus mauritanicus<\/em>, Tarentola boehmei<\/em> and a Psammophis schokari<\/em>.<\/p>\n

At night, we looked for two of our main goals of the trip, Echis leucogaster <\/em>and Telescopus tripolitanus<\/em>, without much luck. On the way to our tent, we found a C. cerastes<\/em> DOR.<\/p>\n

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Aljibe action – Andr\u00e9 peaking down<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Small-spotted Lizard – Mesalina guttulata – rescued from an aljibe<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Small-spotted Lizard – Mesalina guttulata- rescued from an aljibe<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Another day on Moroccan roads<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Lunch time in Assa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Lunch time\u00a0 – Andr\u00e9 and Francisco in Assa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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B\u00f6hm\u2019s Agama – Trapelus boehmei – DOR<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Arid landscape around Assa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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B\u00f6hm\u2019s Gecko – Tarentola boehmei<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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B\u00f6hm\u2019s Gecko – Tarentola boehmei – eye detail<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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B\u00f6hm\u2019s Gecko – Tarentola boehmei<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Forsk\u00e5l\u2019s Sand-snake – Psammophis schokari – rescued from the man-made structure on the photo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Forsk\u00e5l\u2019s Sand-snake – Psammophis schokari – head close-up<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Young dromedaries near Assa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Because they too are herps: North African Water Frog – Pelophylax saharicus<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Campsite near Assa with the starlit sky<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Day 5 \/ September 12th, 2023 – Assa<\/strong><\/p>\n

After a poorly-slept night in the tent in a very windy area, we set off for another day around Assa. We found a great amount of Trapelus boehmei <\/em>and Uromastyx nigriventris <\/em>in aljibes<\/em>, both dead and alive.<\/p>\n

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B\u00f6hm\u2019s Agama – Trapelus boehmei – eye detail<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Impeccable camouflage of the B\u00f6hm\u2019s Agama – Trapelus boehmei (exactly on the top right power point of the photo)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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B\u00f6hm\u2019s Agama – Trapelus boehmei – habitat<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Andr\u00e9 and Francisco at our favorite breakfast place in Assa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Bonelli\u2019s Eagle – Aquila fasciata<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Donkeys near an oasis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Where did the Spiny-tailed Lizard – Uromastyx sp. – go?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Moroccan Spiny-tailed Lizard – Uromastyx nigriventris – and B\u00f6hm\u2019s Agama – Trapelus boehmei – being released after being rescued from an aljibe. These animals were in clear poor condition<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Dromedaries in the arid landscape around Assa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Stunning Moroccan Spiny-tailed Lizard – Uromastyx nigriventris<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In the late afternoon, we found the first (and only live) Malpolon moilensis<\/em> of the trip – two young individuals trapped in an aljibe<\/em>.\u00a0 We also found tracks of Cerastes cerastes<\/em>, just before finding our first alive individual, also trapped in an aljibe<\/em>.<\/p>\n

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Landscape around Assa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Juvenile False Cobra – Malpolon moilensis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Juvenile False Cobra – Malpolon moilensis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Juvenile False Cobra – Malpolon moilensis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Juvenile False Cobra – Malpolon moilensis – eye detail<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Horned Viper – Cerastes cerastes – tracks next to an aljibe<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Horned Viper – Cerastes cerastes<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Horned Viper – Cerastes cerastes<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Horned Viper – Cerastes cerastes<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Horned Viper – Cerastes cerastes<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Horned Viper – Cerastes cerastes – eye detail<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Horned Viper – Cerastes cerastes – and habitat<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In the evening, while we were waiting for the hotel owner to come check us in, this guy that was passing by wanted to know more about us. Verbal communication was difficult, but we had our field guide with us and went through the herps together; he knew his reptiles very well! Just like him, the hotel owner knew people came to Assa to look for a specific snake. It has become regular practice, apparently.<\/p>\n

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Marco and Andr\u00e9 on another lesson on Moroccan herps, this time given to us by this gentleman (on the left) in Assa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Francisco and Marco on another lesson on Moroccan herps, this time given to us by this gentleman (in the middle) in Assa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Marco in his bed in Assa during an afternoon break<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

At night, we were committed to finding at least Echis leucogaster<\/em>, since we knew that Telescopus tripolitanus <\/em>would be a very long shot. After about one hour of searching, and many scorpions and geckos (Tarentola boehmei<\/em> and Tropiocolotes algericus<\/em>), we found our first ever Echis leucogaster<\/em>! And shortly after, the second one! These guys were super cooperative and allowed for great shots!<\/p>\n

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Roman\u2019s Saw-scaled Viper – Echis leucogaster<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Roman\u2019s Saw-scaled Viper – Echis leucogaster<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Roman\u2019s Saw-scaled Viper – Echis leucogaster<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Roman\u2019s Saw-scaled Viper – Echis leucogaster<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Roman\u2019s Saw-scaled Viper – Echis leucogaster – second individual<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Day 6 \/ September 13th, 2023 – Assa – Aouint Ighoumane<\/strong><\/p>\n

After having breakfast in Assa, we headed towards Aouint Ighoumane. This was the day we checked the most aljibes<\/em> and it paid off, as we rescued many animals! We saw Barbarophryne brongersmai<\/em>, Pelophylax saharicus<\/em>, (our first) Eumeces algeriensis<\/em>, Uromastyx nigriventris <\/em>(alive in habitat and aljibe<\/em>, and dead in aljibe<\/em>), Trapelus boehmei <\/em>DOR, Acanthodactylus sp.<\/em>, Mesalina sp.<\/em>, Tarentola sp.<\/em>, one Psammophis schokari<\/em>, two Hemorrhois algirus<\/em>, one Malpolon monspessulanus<\/em>, Cerastes cerastes <\/em>DOR and one live adult Naja haje<\/em>.<\/p>\n

The rescue of the adult cobra<\/u><\/p>\n

The rescue of this Naja haje <\/em>was one of the highlights of the trip. It was late evening and we were getting tired and about done with the day, as we had checked many aljibes<\/em> already. The cobra was in an aljibe<\/em> by the road, surrounded by ground squirrels (Atlantoxerus getulus<\/em>) and their burrows. The aljibe<\/em> had about 80 cm of water and the cobra was floating with the head just above the water surface. None of us had much experience handling cobras, and this one was about 1 m long (so for us this was quite a respectful animal). We set up the rope ladder and agreed that one of us would go down with a snake tong and try to catch it. As Francisco went down \u2013 half naked \u2013, the animal started swimming fast, and so he held on to the rope ladder with one hand, and tried to catch the snake with the tong on the other hand. He managed to catch the animal mid-body, and tried to raise it up above his head through the opening of the aljibe<\/em>, so that Marco could catch it with another tong. Andr\u00e9 was securing the rope ladder on top while Francisco was hanging and swinging on it inside the aljibe<\/em>. Holding with one hand onto the hanging ladder, and holding the tong (with the cobra) with the other was rather physically demanding for Francisco \u2013 and scary, especially when you are raising a cobra above your head and you know that if it falls, it will be on top of you. As Francisco raised the snake through the aljibe<\/em> opening, Marco caught it with another tong, and, carefully not to squeeze the animal too hard, pulled the snake out of the aljibe<\/em>. However, the snake had wrapped its body onto Francisco\u2019s snake tong, and Marco did not want to pull it too strongly. Eventually \u2013 and as we were getting tired (Francisco from holding onto the hanging rope ladder while raising the snake up, and Andr\u00e9 from holding the rope) \u2013, the snake gave in, and Marco took it away from the aljibe<\/em>\u2019s opening. It was quite a stressful process, and seemed to have lasted forever, but in the end, we managed to rescue and photograph the snake in the amazing surrounding landscape.<\/p>\n

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Marco showing his fantastic photography skills: House Bunting – Emberiza sahari – from our bedroom in Assa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Room in our hotel in Assa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Our hotel in Assa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Horned Viper – Cerastes cerastes – DOR<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Oasis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Francisco with a rescued Forsk\u00e5l\u2019s Sand-snake – Psammophis schokari<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Forsk\u00e5l\u2019s Sand-snake – Psammophis schokari – habitat<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Algerian Whip Snake – Hemorrhois algirus intermedius<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Egyptian cobra – Naja haje<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Egyptian cobra – Naja haje<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Egyptian cobra – Naja haje<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Egyptian cobra – Naja haje<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Egyptian cobra – Naja haje<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Montpellier Snake – Malpolon monspessulanus – juvenile, eye detail<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Montpellier Snake – Malpolon monspessulanus – juvenile, head detail<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Montpellier Snake – Malpolon monspessulanus – juvenile<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Aljibe hopping at sunset: aljibe with Orange skink – Eumeces algeriensis – trapped in<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Orange skink – Eumeces algeriensis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Beautiful after-sunset sky and clouds<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

At night, we decided to stop by some water points in the Draa valley where we found Pelophylax saharicus <\/em>and Tarentola sp. <\/em>(likely boehmei<\/em>).<\/p>\n

Day 7 \/ September 14th, 2023 – Aouinet Ighoumane – Tan-Tan<\/strong><\/p>\n

This day\u2019s goal was to go through as many aljibes<\/em> as possible, since it had been paying off the previous days. We found dead Uromastyx nigriventris, Agama bibronii, Eumeces algericus <\/em>and Psammophis schokari<\/em> in the aljibes<\/em>, but also many animals alive: Uromastyx nigriventris, Agama bibronii, Mesalina guttulata, Acanthodactylus boskianus, Tarentola mauritanica, Psammophis schokari<\/em> and Hemorrhois hippocrepis.<\/em><\/p>\n

We had lunch in Aouinet Ighoumane, where the owners of a caffe were kind enough to go fetch some eggs and bread to make a nice omelet for us.<\/p>\n

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Campsite near Aouinet Ighoumane<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Breakfast at the campsite<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Oued Draa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Rescued Bibron\u2019s Agama – Agama bibroni<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Aljibe with a trapdoor<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Spotted Small Lizard – Mesalina guttulata- pretending to be a Desert monitor – Varanus griseus – in defensive posture<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Bosc\u2019s Fringe-toed Lizard – Acanthodactylus boskianus<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Rescued Spiny-tailed Lizard – Uromastix nigriventris – in very poor condition<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Landscape near Aouinet Ighoumane<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Desert Mantis – Eremiaphila sp.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Algerian Whip Snake – Hemorrhois algirus intermedius<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Algerian Whip Snake – Hemorrhois algirus intermedius<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Algerian Whip Snake – Hemorrhois algirus intermedius<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Algerian Whip Snake – Hemorrhois algirus – eye detail<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Another example of great Moroccan hospitality with the classic tea<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Beautiful female Bibron\u2019s Agama – Agama bibroni<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In the afternoon we took some rather interesting \u201croad\u201d to Tan-Tan, along which we checked aljibes<\/em> and habitat along the way. Once we reached the hotel, we did laundry before dinner.<\/p>\n

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On the way to Tan-tan<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Moroccan tea<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Time for laundry at the hotel, with Francisco behind the drying clothes<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We had dinner in Tan-Tan and set off to some road cruising, having Bitis arietans<\/em> as the main goal. We did not see any B. arietans<\/em>, but the activity of Tarentrola chazaliae <\/em>and Stenodactylus mauritanicus <\/em>was quite high.<\/p>\n

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Northern Elegant Gecko – Stenodactylus mauritanicus<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Northern Elegant Gecko – Stenodactylus mauritanicus<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Day 8 \/ September 15th, 2023 – Tan-Tan<\/strong><\/p>\n

After breakfast, we headed east of Tan-Tan to a nice wadi we had found the previous year, but this time, we followed the river for longer. The place was quite amazing and we saw plenty of Pelophylax saharicus <\/em>and several Mauremys leprosa saharicus<\/em>. We also saw a Mesalina sp.<\/em><\/p>\n

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Another day, another aljibe: Andr\u00e9 peeking down<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Marco looking for trapped animals<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Lush oasis near Tan-Tan<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Lush oasis near Tan-Tan<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Spanish Terrapin – Mauremys leprosa – detail<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Spanish Terrapin – Mauremys leprosa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In the afternoon we found a nice-looking Chamaeleo chamaeleon<\/em> in a bush. Later we checked aljibes<\/em> along a road, where we found a Psammophis schokari, Macroprotodon brevis, Tarentola mauritanica, Agama bibronii, Uromastyx nigriventris, Chalcides polylepis <\/em>and Saurodactylus harrisii. <\/em><\/p>\n

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One of the very few aljibes we found (two or three) with an escape ramp for animals<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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One of the very few aljibes we found (two or three) with an escape ramp for animals<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Mediterranean Chameleon – Chamaeleo chamaeleon – eye detail<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Mediterranean Chameleon – Chamaeleo chamaeleon<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Scorpion – Scorpio sp. – first time we saw a species of this genus<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Iberian False Smooth Snake – Macroprotodon brevis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Iberian False Smooth Snake – Macroprotodon brevis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Iberian False Smooth Snake – Macroprotodon brevis – head detail<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Iberian False Smooth Snake – Macroprotodon brevis – eye detail<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Brongersma’s toad – Barbarophryne brongersmai<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Brongersma’s toad – Barbarophryne brongersmai<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After sunset, we saw many Stenodactylus mauritanicus <\/em>and Tropiocolotes algericus <\/em>on the road back to Tan-Tan.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Northern Elegant Gecko – Stenodactylus mauritanicus – eye detail<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Truck filled with straw bales<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Time for dinner<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Time for dinner<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Time for tea<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Time for dinner<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Little Owl – Athene noctua<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Lesser Egyptian Jerboa – Jaculus jaculus<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Day 9 \/ September 16th, 2023 – Tan-Tan – Laayoune<\/strong><\/p>\n

As usual, we started the day with a large breakfast, and then we drove south to Laayoune on N1. The drive is a pleasant one, except for the areas of the highway that are under construction. Otherwise, it is great to have the sea to the west, and the sand-dunes all around. We made a couple of stops to check for animals in habitat, but found nothing besides tracks on the sand. The hot sun and the lack of shelter during the day likely did not help.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Road from Tan-Tan to Laayoune<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Sand dunes off the road from Tan-Tan to Laayoune<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Sand dunes off the road from Tan-Tan to Laayoune<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After lunch in Tarfaya, we checked a few aljibes<\/em> along the road. In one of them, we found a nicely shedding Saurodactylus harrisii<\/em>, a juvenile Tarentola chazaliae <\/em>and a beautiful Chalcides sphenopsiformis <\/em>– one of the highlights of the day.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Senegal Sand-skink – Chalcides sphenopsiformis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Senegal Sand-skink – Chalcides sphenopsiformis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Senegal Sand-skink – Chalcides sphenopsiformis – forelimb detail<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Helmethead Gecko – Tarentola chazaliae<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Helmethead Gecko – Tarentola chazaliae<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Helmethead Gecko – Tarentola chazaliae<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Harris\u2019s Gecko – Saurodactylus harrisii – Shedding<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Harris\u2019s Gecko – Saurodactylus harrisii – Shedding<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Harris\u2019s Gecko – Saurodactylus harrisii – Shedding<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Enormous aljibe with Francisco standing on top<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Lunch time<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In Laayoune, we checked in at the hotel, had a quick dinner, and went looking for the coastal morph of Cerastes vipera<\/em> \u2013 a morph we had missed the previous year.<\/p>\n

The activity seemed low when we started, but soon enough we started seeing tracks of beetles, scorpions, gerbils and other mammals. Then we heard many Pelophylax saharicus<\/em>, and eventually, unmistakable C. vipera <\/em>tracks. We followed the tracks for ca. 300 m to find this quick-moving, beautiful adult that cooperated greatly during the photo shooting.<\/p>\n

We also had our eyes open for Scincus albifasciatus<\/em>, but did not find any.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Laayoune\u2019s Northern Gate<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Sunset over the Saquia el-Hamra river in Laayoune<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Andr\u00e9 photographing a Sand Viper – Cerastes vipera – assisted by Marco<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Sand Viper – Cerastes vipera<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Sand Viper – Cerastes vipera<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Sand Viper – Cerastes vipera<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Sand Viper – Cerastes vipera<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Sand Viper – Cerastes vipera<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Sand Viper – Cerastes vipera<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

Day 10 \/ September 17th, 2023 –\u00a0 Laayoune – Smara<\/strong><\/p>\n

After having had breakfast served by a gentleman we had met the previous year, we started driving towards Smara. Having seen what we wanted to see close to the coast, we drove south and east into the Sahara, always checking aljibes<\/em> and habitat that seemed appealing, and keeping our eyes open for the elusive Varanus griseus<\/em>.<\/p>\n

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Hotel view from Laayoune<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Breakfast coffee in Laayoune<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Graphic representation of the wind in the region<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We ended up finding quite a few animals trapped in aljibes<\/em>: Lytorhynchus diadema, Psammophis schokari \u2013 <\/em>including four eggs \u2013, and also Chalcides ocellatus, <\/em>which has a very fragmented distribution south of the Draa valley, but we found two dead individuals. We also found one Cerastes cerastes <\/em>DOR and Varanus griseus <\/em>tracks. We saw live Chalcides sphenopsiformis<\/em>, Stenodactylus mauritanicus<\/em>, and a Malpolon moilensis <\/em>and a Cerastes cerastes <\/em>DOR.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Andr\u00e9 and Francisco in action<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Dead Ocellated Skinks – Chalcides ocellatus – taken from an aljibe<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Eggs of a Forsk\u00e5l\u2019s Sand-snake – Psammophis schokari – taken from an aljibe that had three adult individuals<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Diadem Sand-snake – Lytorhynchus diadema<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Diadem Sand-snake – Lytorhynchus diadema – head detail with enlarged rostral scale<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Diadem Sand-snake – Lytorhynchus diadema – head detail with enlarged rostral scale<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Andr\u00e9 and Marco photographing the rescued Diadem Sand-snake – Lytorhynchus diadema<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Aljibe from which the Diadem Sand-snake – Lytorhynchus diadema – was rescued<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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False Cobra – Malpolon moilensis – DOR<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Saharan landscape around Smara<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We arrived to Smara during the peak heat hours, and most shops and restaurants were closed then. As we were looking for a place to eat, we came across a gentleman who gladly called a friend to drive us to a restaurant. We had a late lunch\/early dinner in Smara, and went on to look for Tarentola annularis<\/em> and two other geckos we had missed the previous years: Tarentola hoggarensis <\/em>and Stenodactylus petrii.<\/em><\/p>\n

Along the way, we met Houssein, this kid who had previously met and helped different groups of Spanish herpers around Smara. He knew his reptiles well! He helped us find T. annularis<\/em> inside the house where his family was \u2013 who were clearly not as comfortable around the geckos as Houssein was. Among screams of disgust, we got to improvise a short lecture on the ecosystem services of the gecko, before saying goodbye to them.<\/p>\n

On that evening, we quickly found the geckos we were looking for, and also Varanus griseus<\/em>\u2019 tracks.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Andr\u00e9, Marco and Francisco being driven around Smara<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Our friendly driver in Smara<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Finally some more food!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Great food, as always<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Francisco and Andr\u00e9 eating<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Early evening hunt for White-spotted Wall Geckos – Tarentola annularis – with Houssein on a rather famous aljibe (Andr\u00e9, Marco and Houssein)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Francisco, Marco, Houssein and Andr\u00e9 on yet another lesson on Moroccan herps, this time taught by Houssein<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Houssein\u2019s family and friends, and us (and a White-spotted Wall Gecko – Tarentola annularis)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Andr\u00e9 with Houssein\u2019s friends and family<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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White-spotted Wall Gecko – Tarentola annularis – head detail<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Sandy sunset in Smara<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Hoggar\u2019s Gecko – Tarentola hoggarensis – head detail<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Hoggar\u2019s Gecko – Tarentola hoggarensis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Hoggar\u2019s Gecko – Tarentola hoggarensis – on the tree it lives in<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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This beetle shares home with Hoggar\u2019s Gecko – Tarentola hoggarensis – they make the holes on the trees in which the geckos live<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Desert monitor – Varanus griseus – tracks<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
A rather colorful Northern Elegant Gecko – Stenodactylus mauritanicus<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
A very fat White-spotted Wall Gecko – Tarentola annularis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Monkey on a tree: White-spotted Wall Gecko – Tarentola annularis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Anderson\u2019s Short-fingered Gecko – Stenodactylus petrii<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Day 11 \/ September 18th, 2023 – Smara – Tan-Tan<\/strong><\/p>\n

It gets ridiculously windy in the desert. It is also very sandy in the desert. When you have a cheap, rusty 15 year-old summer tent, you will find out sooner or later how annoying the \u201cwind + sand\u201d combo is.<\/p>\n

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Sandy morning in our tent after a very windy night<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Campsite near Smara<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Francisco writing next to the campsite near Smara<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Andr\u00e9, Francisco and Marco next to our tent and car near Smara<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The day was quiet in terms of animals, and we only saw Varanus griseus<\/em>\u2019 tracks, plenty of Tarentola annularis <\/em>and two Macroprotodon brevis <\/em>DOR. We also got a Sundevall\u2019s Jird (Meriones crassus<\/em>) out of an aljibe<\/em>.<\/p>\n

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Desert monitor – Varanus griseus – tracks<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Andr\u00e9 checking for trapped animals<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Sundevall\u2019s Jird – Meriones crassus<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u00a0<\/em>Back in Tan-Tan, we got ready for a long night of road cruising in the quest for Bitis arietans<\/em>, Naja haje <\/em>and Boaedon fuliginosus<\/em>. Luckily, we succeeded with one of them! We stopped the car next to a small bridge over a dry river bed and, just as we were getting ready to head back to the car, Andr\u00e9 found a beautiful B. arietans<\/em> completely exposed on the sandy ground. That was the highlight of the evening! It was also very close to the place where we had seen\u00a0 B. fuliginosus <\/em>the previous year.<\/p>\n

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Puff Adder – Bitis arietans – in situ<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Puff Adder – Bitis arietans – in situ<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Puff Adder – Bitis arietans – in situ<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Marco assisting Francisco photographing a Puff Adder – Bitis arietans<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Puff Adder – Bitis arietans<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Puff Adder – Bitis arietans<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Puff Adder – Bitis arietans<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The drive back from the field to Tan-Tan was long, and we were stopped by police – they drove towards our car, full-beam headlights on, and blocked the road so we were forced to stop. Once they realized we were just some weird tourists, they were extremely friendly, and only asked for ID\u2019s and took note of the car\u2019s plate. Besides the viper, we also saw a few Tarentola mauritanica<\/em> that night.<\/p>\n

Day 12 \/ September 19th, 2023 – Tan-Tan – Sidi Ifni<\/strong><\/p>\n

We drove towards Sidi Ifni, looking for animals in both habitat and aljibes<\/em> along the way. We saw Acanthodactylus boskianus, Tarentola mauritanica, Chamaeleo chamaeleon, Hemorrhois algirus <\/em>and Macroprotodon brevis<\/em>.<\/p>\n

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Bosc\u2019s Fringe-toed Lizard – Acanthodactylus boskianus – juvenile rescued from an aljibe<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Mediterranean Chameleon – Chamaeleo chamaeleon<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Mediterranean Chameleon – Chamaeleo chamaeleon<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Dead Moroccan Toad – Sclerophrys mauritanica – found dry in an aljibe<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Bibron\u2019s Agama – Agama bibronii<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Andr\u00e9 and Francisco chilling in an Oasis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We also met Abdellah! We had been in contact with him on our trips to Morocco, but this was the first time we actually met in person! We had the chance to give him a shirt we made for the trip. Abdellah was herping too, and had just found a Cerastes cerastes<\/em> that we got to photograph.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Abdellah displaying the shirt we gave him, and us (Andr\u00e9, Marco and Francisco)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Horned Viper – Cerastes cerastes<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In the evening, we looked for animals along the road, and also checked some habitats. We saw Stenodactylus mauritanicus, Tarentola chazaliae<\/em>, Pelophylax saharicus, Sclerophrys mauritanicus, Saurodactylus harrisii <\/em>and what could have been the southernmost record of Hyla meridionalis <\/em>(maybe?), as we found two individuals about 1h30 south of Sidi Ifni.<\/p>\n

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Stripeless Tree Frog – Hyla meridionalis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Stripeless Tree Frog – Hyla meridionalis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Stripeless Tree Frog – Hyla meridionalis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Harris\u2019s Gecko – Saurodactylus harrisii<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Moroccan Toad – Sclerophrys mauritanica<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Moroccan Toad – Sclerophrys mauritanica<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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North African Hedgehog – Atelerix algirus<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Day 13 \/ September 20th, 2023 – Sidi Ifni<\/strong><\/p>\n

One last day around Sidi Infi before we headed back to Agadir. We saw many species we had already seen the previous days (including the only striped Psammophis schokari <\/em>we had seen), and a new species for the trip: Quedenfeldtia moerens<\/em>.<\/p>\n

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Camp site near Sidi Ifni<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Camp site near Sidi Ifni<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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The harsh reality: another Puff Adder – Bitis arietans – DOR<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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View from the hotel in Sidi Ifni<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Breakfast at the hotel<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Euphorbia officinarum subsp. echinus<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Euphorbia officinarum subsp. echinus, flower detail<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Euphorbia officinarum subsp. echinus, flower with a bee<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Andr\u00e9 and Francisco looking for animals between Sidi Ifni and Guelmim<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Moussier\u2019s Redstart – Phoenicurus moussieri<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Moroccan Day Gecko – Quedenfeldtia moerens<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Moroccan Day Gecko – Quedenfeldtia moerens<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Moroccan Day Gecko – Quedenfeldtia moerens, note the darker spiny scales above the eyes<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Forsk\u00e5l\u2019s Sand-snake – Psammophis schokari<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Forsk\u00e5l\u2019s Sand-snake – Psammophis schokari<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Forsk\u00e5l\u2019s Sand-snake – Psammophis schokari<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Barbary Ground Squirrel – Atlantoxerus getulus<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Barbary Ground Squirrel – Atlantoxerus getulus<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Common Bulbul – Pycnonotus barbatus<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Just before sunset, in one of the last aljibes we checked that day, there was a beautiful adult Hemorrhois hippocrepis <\/em>that quickly buried itself in the deep layer of dried mud blocks. It took us a while to find it, but we did manage to dig it out and safely free the snake. We had all seen dozens or hundreds of H. hippocrepis<\/em>, but easily agreed this was the most beautiful we had ever seen!<\/p>\n

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Stunning Horseshoe Whip Snake – Hemorrhois hippocrepis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Horseshoe Whip Snake – Hemorrhois hippocrepis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Horseshoe Whip Snake – Hemorrhois hippocrepis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Horseshoe Whip Snake – Hemorrhois hippocrepis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Francisco photographing the Horseshoe Whip Snake – Hemorrhois hippocrepis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Horseshoe Whip Snake – Hemorrhois hippocrepis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Horseshoe Whip Snake – Hemorrhois hippocrepis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

At night we looked mostly for Daboia mauritanica, <\/em>but had no luck. Nonetheless, we found many juvenile Chamaeleo chamaeleon<\/em> and Mauremys leprosa<\/em>, both adults and juveniles.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Moroccan Toad – Sclerophrys mauritanica<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Giant African Mantis – Sphodromantis viridis<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Mediterranean Chameleon – Chamaeleo chamaeleon – juvenile sleeping on a grass<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Mediterranean Chameleon – Chamaeleo chamaeleon – juvenile sleeping on a grass<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Mediterranean Chameleon – Chamaeleo chamaeleon – juvenile sleeping on a grass<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Mediterranean Chameleon – Chamaeleo chamaeleon – juvenile sleeping on a grass<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Mediterranean Chameleon – Chamaeleo chamaeleon – sleeping<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Day 14 \/ September 21st, 2023 – Sidi Ifni – Agadir<\/strong><\/p>\n

This was our last herping day and we spent most of it on the road back to Agadir. We looked for Testudo graeca<\/em> around Tiznit, but were not lucky with these guys this year. Once in Agadir, we went to some early evening herping in the outskirts of the city and found Saurodactylus brosseti<\/em>, Tarentola mauritanica<\/em> and Agama bibronii<\/em>.<\/p>\n

\"\"
View from the hotel in Sidi Ifni<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Last lunch in Morocco<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Last lunch in Morocco<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Last lunch in Morocco<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Romantic room for the last night<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Souq in Agadir<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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Last herp of the trip: South Morocco Lizard-fingered Gecko – Saurodactylus brosseti<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Day 15 \/ September 22nd, 2023 – Agadir – Lisbon<\/strong><\/p>\n

Early morning flight back to Lisbon. Even though we missed a few species we would have liked to see, such as Telescopus tripolitanus, Daboia mauritanica <\/em>and Trogonophis wiegmanni<\/em>, we consider this trip a very successful one! We rescued dozens of animals from alibes<\/em> and saw a considerable number of herp species and snakes in particular, with 39 (alive), and 12 (alive) respectively. The fact that we missed some of the goals of the trip is one more reason to return next year.<\/p>\n

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On the way back to Lisbon<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

If you enjoyed this trip report, you can see the video on the trip HERE<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Acknowledgements<\/strong><\/p>\n

We would like to thank Gabriel Mart\u00ednez and Abdellah Bouazza for the precious tips! A special thank you to all the people we met during our trip who helped us, fed us, and listened to us ranting about our weird passion for herps!<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

by Francisco Silva, Marco Caetano and Andr\u00e9 Oliveira Following up on our trip in 2022 and the will to return the year after, Marco and I went back to South Morocco on another herping trip. This time with our friend Andr\u00e9! We traveled to Morocco from the 8th until the 22nd of September 2023. This … <\/p>\n

Continue reading “South Morocco September 2023”<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-7740","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.moroccoherps.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/7740","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.moroccoherps.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.moroccoherps.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.moroccoherps.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.moroccoherps.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=7740"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"https:\/\/www.moroccoherps.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/7740\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8263,"href":"https:\/\/www.moroccoherps.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/7740\/revisions\/8263"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.moroccoherps.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=7740"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}