By Gabri Mtnez
The Namib desert and Namaqualand are dream places for most of the herpetologists around the world.
I visited South Africa for first time with my good friend Aviad Bar in the Christmas of 2014-2015 and we had a really great trip, but we found a high activity in the “African” climate areas (Hluwluwe, Durban…) and the Kalahari but 0 activity in the “Mediterranean” climate areas of Namaqualand.
So, after 7 years in a law firm where I only could get holidays in august, holy week (spring) or Christmas I changed to a company where I could get holidays almost all year around. It was time to return to Namaqualand in a better moment and find one of the most amazing snakes of Africa: many-horned adder, coral cobra or tiger cat snake. This time instead of driving from Johannesburg, we would visit Namaqualand from Windhoek and then we could find also some of the Namibian amazing habitats and jewels.
I only could get a free week but Alex and Budi got another week, so they would visit Etosha and other areas north of Windhoek before our trip together.
The dates were coming close and close and we were very excited. Finally, Budi and Alex could begin their trip to north Namibia. They were very successful with big mammals and birds but just few reptile observations. Dry season in the “African” climate areas is not usually a good option for herping.
We didn´t get exact points or data of local herpetologist so all was a bit uncertain. In that part of the world herpetologist look very protective with “their” animals that is understandably considering the number of smugglers that in the past were captured with dwarf vipers, armadillo lizards and others.
DAY 1
Alex and Budi picked me up in the Windhoek airport at middle aand we directly drove to the coast to try to find the first target of the trip: the Peringuey’s adder (Bitis peringueyi).
At midway we made a fast stop, and could find just a gecko species. Alex and Budi were a bit frustrated about reptile activity and I began to be scary about a second trip to Namaqualand without activity.
We arrived to the coastal dunes and began searching. The temperature was already low in the evening so no lizards moving, but after few minutes we found an amazing contrasted Psammophis resting inside a bush. The Namib Sand Snake (Psammophis namibensis) was cold and moved slow so we could take some fast photos and left in in calm resting. Later we flipped few pieces of hard sand and appeared another of the targets of Namibia: the Namib Sand Gecko (Pachydactylus rangei).
The night began and we searched around the dunes and found few more geckos more, including the first Chondrodactylus angulifer, also known as the common giant ground gecko.
We were frustrated about the sand viper but with the low temperature we thought that maybe we could find it the morning. Even without the viper, it was an amazing first evening for the trip, in that environment and with those amazing geckos and Psammophis.
DAY 2
After a cold night with 10 degrees approximately we woke up in the amazing coastal dunes. The temperature was still cold and cloudy so not activity around. We moved to the village to take the breakfast waiting that weather change a bit.
We moved to a second spot. A dry river with sand rocks and bushes. Flipping we didn´t find nothing apart invertebrates so we moved to a third spot.
This third spot looks the worse of the visited, with an immensity of sand and few bush groups. But the sun appeared between the clouds and the temperature was a bit better, over the 15 degrees. Around the bushes we began to see the first lizards (Meroles sp.) basking and the first viper tracks… and the Peringuey´s viper!
After taking some photos of the first target, we left it basking in peace and drove to the camp place again to see if with sun we would be luckier. After few minutes we could find probably the last of our wish species for the first spot: the Namaqua chameleon (Chamaeleo namaquensis).
We drove thorough awesome desert habitats until the night arrived. A pity that we saw a Rock Monitor (Varanus albigularis), but it was dead. We put the camp and walk around. With the dark we began to listen looks of barking geckos (Ptenopus sp.) calling. After some minutes searching, we could see a Keeled snake (Pythonodipsas carinata), an amazing find, totally unexpected. This snake is suppose to be genetically close to the Mole Snake, but it´s morphologically and ecologically very different, having a “Cat Snake” aspect and life. A snake that survive in rocky areas, being active at night to hunt mainly in geckos. Also we found worm snakes moving around.
DAY 3
We woke up and drove directly to the probably most famous landscape of Namibia. We made the “touristic itinerary” and drove to the south of Namibia. We found some interesting orange dunes and made a fast herping. The temperature was relatively high, over 25 degrees and we could find a Shovel snouted lizard (Meroles anchietae). When we were following it to take some photos, a Peringuey´s viper jumped out from the sand! It was a funny crazy surprise. The one of Swakopmund was yellow like that sand, completely different to this specimen, that was vivid orange, like this sand. Incredible experience
We drove to the south to the third spot of the trip. We passed thorough rocky, sandy, and mixed habitats until we reached the steppes with burrows. We were discussing about the possible presence of cobras in that habitat when suddenly… a large yellow cobra crossed the trail in front of us. We stopped the car completely crazy and jump to the Cape Cobra (Naja nivea) that was surprised, adopting the typical cobra defensive position.
We took some photos of that elegant and legendary animal and continue driving direction to the South Africa border. We saw a jackal crossing the trail and in the electricity sticks we saw in few kms two adult Martial Eagles (Polemaetus bellicosus), probably waiting to hunt cape cobras or mammals crossing the trail. The day looked unbeatable until suddenly we saw a small snake in the trail. There was still daylight when we found the first Horned Adder (Bitis caudalis). An amazing specimen with bluish colors. One of the most beautiful snakes I personally ever seen. We thought that day was a dream and searched for a place for sleeping when we saw 2 more Horned Adders in the trail. That magic day deserved a good dinner so we searched for a good place to have an amazing dinner. Absolutely incredible day
DAY 4
We woke up not far of the Namibia border and drove to the Orange river. We saw another Horned Adder dead on the trail, so it seems that this species is quite common in southern Namibia.
In the Orange River we made a stop to search in a rocky habitat that looked amazing for desert mountain adders (Bitis xeropaga). During the morning we didn´t find much activity of animals. The strange thing was that Budi, Alex and I were searching around for separate until Alex told us that we should move. He told us that a black man was pressing him. We saw that man again and he asked us where we had put the diamonds in our bags. No matter how many times we told to that man that we were photographing wildlife and landscapes and we didn´t care about diamonds, he was with us with worry face like if we were stolen anything about him. Like Gollum with Frodo, but we hadn´t the ring, diamonds or nothing apart of our photography equipment. We took photos of an amazing skink (Cordylosaurus subtessellatus) and left the place.
In our way to South Africa, we thorough the Orange Valley we could saw several monkey groups, white head eagles and even took a bath in the river.
The night began and we searched around. The density of reptiles were low and after some hours we just found some geckos and a house snake (Boaedon fuliginosus). Finally, we crossed to South Africa and searched for a place for sleeping. The border administrative issues were relatively fast so we didn´t sleep too late.
DAY 5
After a cold night, we woke up, took breakfast and received the first sun rays and made a stop in the first point of South Africa, a place that I visited with Aviad in Christmas several years ago. It was a trash place so although it was early for reptile activity we found some species, including one our TOP LIST, the striped sandveld lizard (Nucras tessellata).
Finally, we drove to the coastal area, to search for the Namaqua dwarf adder (Bitis schneideri), the smallest viper species in the world. We found many snake tracks during the day in the sandy areas with bushes of the coast, but after following the tracks we never saw snakes.
During the night the temperature fast was lower than 20 degrees and we tried road crossing but found 0 reptiles. Very frustrated we searched for a place to sleep and considering if we should try another night or drive back to Namibia.
DAY 6
We woke up and again drove to the coast again. We stopped in a place for herping and 2 minutes later appeared a car. There was a security man that told us that we couldn´t stay in that area. One minute later appeared a second car. These guys explained us with lot of education that is a mining area (diamonds-gold?) so we had to move.
So, we drove a bit and discovered a group of meerkats (Suricata suricatta). After some photos a turtle crossed the trail. So, we stopped the car to take photos of the turtle whereas it was crossing and finally we stayed herping around. There were no fences or signals of mining so apparently there was no problem. We could find some lizards and the first cordylids.
We finally decided to go inland and Alex had the great idea to drive to unknown trails instead of the main road. The landscape was full of amazing flowers and suddenly a chameleon was crossing the trail. Five minutes later we saw a rare Cordylus basking in a big rock. We began to be excited about the idea of finding an Ouroborus. However there was a big creek with the Cordylus and a gecko. Typical “Uromastyx” creek, that if you want to take out the animal you need to make them damage. So we leave them in peace and walked again to the car. In these 2 minutes there were a turtle moving around and a large Psammophis.
We continued driving and taking photos of Cordylus or Agama basking in the sides, until we saw anything that look greener than an Iguana! It was really strange. With the photo lenses we could see that it was an Agama hispida. It looks that males in mating season become extremely green. Absolutely gorgeous agamid!!
The day was being great when we saw another strange Cordylus in a stone close to the car. We flipped it and it was a couple Ouroborus with a juvenile. Incredible moment. These animals are so amazing. One of the most famous reptile species in the world.
We were absolutely amazing with the Ouroborus family but it was getting late and it was time for road crossing. So, we said bye bye to these cute animals and began our last road crossing in South Africa. The temperature dropped off when the sun disappeared, but it was still a bit warmer than the previous night. Fortunately, we saw fast another target for the trip: the many horned adder (Bitis cornuta). It was a subadult specimen very calm.
After some fast photos and some geckos in the road we continued driving and just in front of us a huge 4×4 car hit another snake in the middle of the road. It was another many horned adder, an adult one, completely crushed. We were really sad about that and continued driving and few kms later we saw another snake in the side of the road. It was a tiger snake, another of the targets of the trip. While we were going to take photos of the Telescopus beetzi, with the car lights we saw another snake crossing the road less than 100 meters away. It was a nice many horned adder, the third of the night. Absolutely magic moment.
After that amazing night we decided to cross to Namibia and wake up there in the morning to try to find our last top species, the coral cobra. In the way to Namibia we saw an adult Bitis arietans dead on road. I didn´t know puff adders could be present in that area so it was a surprise. The African king puff adder is almost everywhere in Africa.
DAY 7
After some hours of sleeping, we woke up in Namibia and decided to visit a tourist place, an awesome valley landscape. Around the valley we could see some big mammals, like ostriches and oryxes.
When we left the touristic place, we saw an snake extremely fast crossing the trail. It was an amazing Psammophis. Probably the only or few genera of snakes that stay active in the African deserts in sunny days in the middle of the day.
We stopped for eating in southern Namibia. I don´t like to ask for points and the Namibian – South African herpers that I talked about was very elusive with info. Nice people as Nick Evans or Dean Boshoff live in Southeastern South Africa so I didn´t even try to ask them. But it was our last night for coral cobra. We already saw everything and we wanted so much to see Aspidelaps lubricus. I sent a desperate message to Johan Marais, because I knew he saw some coral cobras in Southern Namibia. He didn´t know me in person and probably everybody asks them for places so he answered me very fast but in general terms. I didn´t want to insist so we just drove around to try to find a message. In a while we saw a dead large black cobra. Naja nigricinta is a very rare species in open areas in southern Namibia, mainly found around water, so after an analysis we confirmed that it was a black Naja nivea (identification confirmed with W. Wuster).
After some kms more we saw another snake dead on road. It was a coral cobra. It was completely crashed. Probably killed many days ago because there was not many traffic around. But we now knew that corals were exactly there.
We didn´t stop driving around the cape cobra dead in the last moments of the day, and when the night began… a coral cobra crossing the road! Few kms to the dead one, same habitat. We were extremely happy with that. The sky was cloudy and the wind was strong so we had no sure that we would be lucky, but we did. After some photos of our last target for the trip we continued driving and saw over 4 worm snakes crossing the road and finally an Egg Eater (Dasypeltis scabra?). We went for sleeping after drinking a bottle of Namaqua wine to celebrate the trip. Fieldherping is sometimes frustrating, sometimes sad, and sometimes incredible. And it was incredible to enjoy the Namibia and Namaqualand landscapes and also our top list creatures.
DAY 8
We had many hours to Windhoek and we would take the flights back to Spain in the night, so we began early to drive back the Namibia capital. After a while driving, we saw a big black snake in the trail. It was the saddest moment for Budi that was asking for Mole snakes during all the trip. The snake was dead but “perfect”, so probably just a car hit it few minutes (seconds?) ago.
We continued driving and just make 3 stops, one for a Psammophis that crossed the trail, the second for eating in a “restaurant”/hotel that has a Naja nigricinta picture in the wall and another stop to see a car cemetery. Not far from Windhoek we saw a mammal crossing the road in the first moments of the night, that looks like a Caracal.
Finally, it began raining and in the last kms before Windhoek we saw some amphibians in the road. We had no time for photos, so just moved out of the road some toads and drive fast. The trip was over. The best trip to Namibia-Namaqualand we could image. Maybe with local guides we could see Bitis schneideri, Bitis xeropaga, Naja nigricinta or even a black mamba, but that would have been a different trip. Our trip was totally adventure, unexpected finds, in situ habitat selection to find species. Crazy. Of course no animal suffered during our trip and even we saved several animals to be road killed, that seems to be one of the main problem for the reptiles in these amazing pristine habitats. And it is clear, at least for me, that part of the world is indeed one of my favorites for herping in the world.