North Morocco- May 2024

By Gabri Mtnez

 

Like in the last years, I got time to make a fast trip to Morocco in spring.

Aprox itinerary

 

Last time that I crossed to Morocco in my own car was in 2019. I don´t know what happened then, but when I made a trip to Morocco in plane, before taking the flight back to Spain the police had to make me a special authorization because they thought that in 2019 I left my car in Morocco.

So the Tuesday 30 of april in the evening I crossed to Africa. I arrived at 22.00h aprox. to Tanger Med Port but needed over 3 hours to get that police revised their problem with my car and cancel the alarm. Now I arrived from Spain in my car, the definitive proof that I didn´t leave my car there in 2019.

Crossing to Africa from Europe in Ferry has always anything special. .

 

WEDNESDAY 1 MAY

Being very late in the night when I got to enter in Morocco, I just searched for a calm place for sleeping.

I woke up and drove directly to Guercif. It´s a large trip in highway so I made several stops.

First was in la Mamora Forest. Like in my last visits, all was completely destroyed. Few water spots without Pelobates varaldii tadpoles. Nothing flipping under things, except adult Sclerophrys mauritanica.

Second stop was in a “Chalcides ebneri” possible spot. Apart of the extreme difficult to find this possible extint species / phenotype of Chalcides colosii, the area was very wet and cold. I didn´t find nothing apart of two Pelophylax saharicus, some Tarentola mauritanica and a Psammodromus algirus.

Morocco is a paradise for herpetology but also for architecture
Most areas of North Morocco are agriculture fields.
Fountain with Pelophylax saharicus
Pelophylax saharicus, in situ
Cool mediterranean habitat. However no skinks found this time (Chalcides polylepis is the typical in all the Fes area)
Habitat
Psammodromus algirus and Tarentola mauritanica habitat

Finally, I reached Guercif. Before the hotel I stopped in some places around Guercif. Lot of water everywhere. No reptiles dead or alive on road. Just 5 small Hemorrhois hippocrepis dead on human constructions and 2 juvenile Testudo graeca under a flat concrete piece. It looked more February than May, so I went for sleeping soon, and next day I would go to the Rif mountains to try to be more lucky there.

These kind of structures are perfect shelter for Tarentola sp., and deadly for small colubrids

 

THURSDAY 2 MAY

I began the trip to Tanger Med thorough the Rif Mountains. In the first stop I saw a large Hemorrhois hippocrepis. After a bad beginning of trip I was happy, because that specimen in particular was maybe the nicest Hemorrhois hippocrepis I had ever seen (and it is the species that I have seen more in my whole life).

When the arid habitat disappears, begins the Mediterranean habitat. I made a stop in a lagoon and found some Hyla meridionalis and lots of tadpoles. In a rocky habitat around (almost 1900 masl) I found a juvenile Malpolon monspessulanus basking and an Agama bibronii that disappeared fast between rocks and a few Salamandra algira larvae in a deep fountain.

Rocky habitat in the top of the mountains
Temporal lagoon in high mountain
Lots of tadpoles

Dark Hyla meridionalis
Typical colour for Hyla meridionalis
Malpolon monspessulanus, in situ basking at middle of the day
I tried to make a closer in situ shot of the Malpolon, and then escaped like a ray
More rocky habitat. Incredible to find Agama and Malpolon in a place so cold

After some kms I made another stop and found a Sclerophys mauritanica, some Podarcis vaucheri and a couple of Coronella girondica. The temperature was under 15 degrees so I went directly for sleeping to a hotel.

Podarcis vaucheri and Coronella girondica habitat
Coronella girondica
Coronella girondica, close-up
Podarcis vaucheri
Sclerophrys mauritanica
A second Coronella girondica
Rif Mountains road, always in progress
The amazing views of the Rif
Crazy hotel that I booked. But cheap and close to the mountains 🙂

 

FRIDAY 3 MAY

The night in the Rif was extremely cold. Much more that I expected for May. I woke up, take a «Moroccan omelette» with a tea and drive to the next spot. With my car I could drive well in trails and visited some cool rocky areas. Although the habitat was extremely nice and looked amazing for snakes (including Vipera monticola saintgironsi), I just saw some lizards.

Corvus
Garrulus glandarius
Ferns and rocks between forest, a paradise for lizards (Psammodromus algirus and Podarcis vaucheri)
A couple of Psammodromus algirus, male at the left with big red head
Male Psammodromus algirus
Berberomeloe yebli

Typical Vipera habitat. No signs of activity

With the low activity of snakes in the mountains I drove a while to check some irrigation ponds. The only alive animals inside that I found were several Pelophylax saharicus. There were some toads drowned (probably Bufo spinosus and Sclerophrys mauritanica). Flipping rocks around a small lagoon could see a Natrix maura and a extremely thin Natrix astreptophora.

If the Southwestern part of Morocco had a strong problem with the cisterns and the pits, the Rif has a strong problem with the irrigation ponds. They are everywhere and animals can´t survive inside for a long time
Agama bibronii, in situ
A oportunistic Pelophylax saharicus using a big bird dead body to survive hunting all the flies and small animals that go to the dead animal to eat.
Small water point in the Rif Mountains
Dark Natrix maura
My 6th Natrix astreptophora of Morocco. Again a young one. It looked very skinny. Probably didn´t eat for a large period
These red eyes are absolutely amazing. Astreptophora is indeed one of the nicest snakes in the mediterranean basin
Even in very humid areas of the Rif, agamas are relatively common

After eating a bit, I moved to another lagoon. As always there, some Emys orbicularis made my Rif experience amazing.

Temporal lagoons of the Rif are sometimes absolute herpetofauna paradises
Emys orbicularis
Hyla meridionalis, in situ
Podarcis vaucheri, in situ
Pelophylax saharicus, in situ
Podarcis vaucheri, in situ

Podarcis vaucheri, basking position
Male Psammodromus algirus «ketamensis», in situ
Young Moroccans in general are extremely scary about snakes, but they like lizards, scorpions and other animals
Scorpion. Looks like a Buthus

Very tired, I went to take a good Moroccan dinner and slept soon.

 

SATURDAY 4 MAY

I woke up and visit another spot.

Macaca sylvanus

Chalcides colosii in habitat
Blanus tingitanus, huge sized specimen
Blanus tingitanus, close-up

Discoglossus scovazzi

The most underestimated snake in Spain and Morocco, the viperine snake. It is so common in some places that we are not conscient about how nice they are. This specimen in particular was really great
Natrix maura, close-up

Another Berberomeloe yebli
Nice Podarcis vaucheri
Timon tangitanus. A shy species that I see much less than Agama in the Rif Mountains

Later I drove to Tanger Med to cross again to Spain. I arrived to the Port the Saturday at 20.00h. Well, I got the ferry at 5:30h after more than 9 hours waiting. The Moroccan Government made a control for the cars since many years ago, and a machine had to scan cars from 6 cars to 6 cars to try to find hidden people or other illegal things. And every scan needs about 10 minutes. So If for example there are 300 cars in the Port to cross to Europe, 300/6 are 50 scans=500 minutes. Incredible… I didn´t remember that was so slow… I think for 3-4 days trip is much better to get a flight than to cross in your car.